Double breasted suits can be described as one of the most iconic and powerful pieces in the men’s fashion. Known for its formality and sophistication with that pre-war/ war-era appealing appearance that has been rather popular in the recent years, the double breasted suit is back to stay and become a gentleman’s wardrobe staple again. This suit with the slanted front flaps and two vertical rows of buttons on both sides of the waist gives this style of suit a unique look that has been exciting people for many years of its existence.
The origins of the double breasted suits, differences, and peculiarities of its cut, how this piece should be worn, and why the double breasted suit has not lost its popularity to this day are the great material to discuss. This article discusses the history of the double breasted suits, its evolution over the years, styling tips and why the suit is still popular today in modern fashion world.
History and Development Of The Double Breasted Suits
- Origins in Naval Tradition
Double breasted suits has origin that can be traced back back military and naval outfits where form and functionality coexisted. In its infancy, it could be identified in the naval reefer jackets which were worn by the officers of the British Royal Navy in the19th century. These jackets, intended for warmth and shield from stiff conditions of sea, had the features of front overlay and two button plies in order to prevent wind. This functionality of the design later become civilian clothing especially in regions where there was need to insulate the body.
- 1930s to 1950s: Double Breasted Suits In The Era Of Golden Age
The double breasted suit can be traced back as far as the beginning of the 20th century and became very popular in the ‘30s and ‘40s. This period was known as the ‘Golden Age of menswear’, and films like ‘Gone with the Wind’ and ‘The African Queen’ brought glamour to the big screen with actors like Cary Grant and Clark Gable. Double breasted suits with wider and padded shoulders also fall under this category and was characterized by power and height.
In the 1940s Europe and the world as a whole had to face the effects of World War II and fabrics were scarce and were limited leading to more sober clothing designs. However, the double breasted suit remained a part of the male’s wardrobes, and even if it was produced with simplified, however, it still reflected sophistication.
The double breasted suit gained popularity during the 1950’s and was popular with businessmen, politicians and any one who wanted to project the image of a big shot. The lapels of the suits during this era where wider and its overall structure provided more body; the body of the suits were even accentuated for emphasis.
- The decline and resurgence in the duration of 1980’s and 1990’s
The mid twentieth century’s fashion trends changed from the previously formal attire towards more informal and functional designs and the double breasted suit was no longer in demand for a while. Simpler cuts, particularly single-breasted suits, became the trends of the day for men’s fashions.
Nonetheless the 1980s saw the revival of the double breasted suit with FIVE-Buttons becoming the trademark of designers such as Giorgio Armani. The newly created classification of the power suit during the sestyle decade defined the 1980s style by slim over-wide shoulders and a loose-waisted silhouette. Men today including business tycoons and Wall Street moguls began embracing this look in order to reflect their financial status as well as power.
In the early of the new decade, designers continued to refine the slim line, providing neater models of the double breasted suit that we also indicating the power look but in a more stylistically modern manner.
- The 21st Century: The Return of Tailored Elegance
Around the early 2000, the double breasted suit lost its popularity and gave way to other types of suits popular modern world. However, in the recent past, particularly in the last decade, menswear especially the classic double breasted suit has had a revival in the fashion industry.
Today, modern tailoring has breathed into the double breasted suit a new and more youthful look. The well-tailored slim suits, narrow lapels and the new focus on superior fabrics that currentlyiper appeal to today’s youthful man are some of the changes that designers have made. The wear of the suit is no longer exclusive to the businessmen and other corporate entities, but it can now be accessorized in different ways and occasions hence making it a flex wear for most modern men.
Understanding the Design: Structure of Double Breasted Suits
Before one can understand the full value of the double breasted suit, it’s necessary to examine it from the design point of view. While the single breasted suit does not possess much than one line of buttons, the double breasted suit has two horizontal sets of buttons. Due to this arrangement, the front of the vehicles is designed to overlap which is referred to as the ‘wrap’.
Here are some key features of the double breasted suit:
- Button Configuration
The double breasted suit typically comes in several different button configurations, most commonly:
- 6×2: This is a typical layout where one has six buttons in total with only two being working buttons.
- 6×1: Similar to the 6×2 but with only one working button allowing it to appear slightly less business like.
- 4×2: A little trimmed down version of the previous one which has four buttons while two buttons are active one.
- 4×1: the design is minimalistic the keypad has 4 buttons but only one is functional.
The 6×2 configuration is accepted to be the most conservative and formal while 4×2 and 4×1 come across as trendy and relaxed.
- Lapels
Peak lapels are very common and characterized by sharp angle that point to the shoulder and are mainly used in double breasted suits. With peak lapels, a focus is made on enlarging the shoulders; thus, enhancing the tailored appearance and providing the suits’ well-known masculine look due to the nature of the double-breasted design.
Occasionally, one may also get to see what is known as shawl lapels that has a rounded edge and these are popular is the double-breasted tuxedos or evening suits.
- Venting and Structure
Usually, double breasted suits are even more tailored than single-breasted ones – with cribbed shoulders, and less spacious waist. They easily include with side vents to facilitate flexing, which is crucial in view of the fact that the fronts overlap. This structure contributes to the overall authoritarian appearance, commanding appearance of the suit.
- Fit and Silhouette
The present fashion of the double breasted suit differ from the over sized fashions of the eighties. Currently available styles are designed to provide the woman with a neater figure with the waist being pulled in to give the figure a more hour glass figure and broad top and narrow bottom.
How to Wear a Double Breasted Suit
To bring out the charm and style of a double breasted suit the following should be done:
As we said the double breasted suit is a powerful statement as it is, but how you wear it makes all the difference. Here are some tips on how to wear a double breasted suit:
- Fit is Everything
The most crucial thing that one has to consider when putting on a double breasted suit is the way it is fitted. The second type of suit should fit you close to the skin without being too tight, hence the need to wear a dress shirt. There are certain parts of the body that needs extreme focus, especially the shoulders and the waistline. If the shoulders are wide and more so if the waist is too large the suit will not look correct. A good suit of clothes should not be too tight to restrict movement and yet should not be too loose to assume the shape of a clear cut block.
- Always Button Up
Another set in stone rule that one has to adhere to while using the double breasted suit is to never tuck in more than buttons. This keeps the shape of the suit intact and stops the the suit from flaring open at the wrong angle. As for the 6×2 configuration, the button in the middle is fastened; in the case of 4×2 or 4×1 configuration, a single button is attached.
- Match the Occasion
Despite the fact that suits with double-breasted suits are even considered to be more formal than the single-breasted ones for some extent, it is still possible dress them down for the smart-casual occasions. Wear a double-breasted suits worn with dark jeans or chinos is a perfect combination that gives a modern and classy feeling. For more occasions, you must adhere to more conservative forms: matching the color of the suit with well-pressed trousers and the shine of the leather shoes.
- Mind the Accessories
Owing to the nature of the double breasted suit, it is advisable to go for simple accessories that do not overpower the suit. A necktie bow, a hanky, and a wristwatch will do the trick. And it was suggested that accessories should not be over elaborate and not overshadow the suit.
- Color and Fabric Choices
This means that the colour and the material of your double breasted suit will determine its usefulness. For business or other formal occasions, choose dark shades of blue such as navy, grey or black. If one desires to look more casual, then lighter colors for example gray, beige even pastel colors can be worn.
Fabrics are also another very critical aspect that needs to be considered. Wool is the most common one for winter however linen and cotton suits are tailored for spring and summer seasons.
The Evolution of the Modern Double Breasted Suit in Todays Fashion
Double breasted suit has returned into mainstream fashion in the beginning of the twenty first century, because of the coming back of vintage and classy style of male clothing and suits. Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren and Thom Browne have all resparked new interest in the potential of double breasted suit by experimenting a lot with fabrication, and currently completely reinterpreting the cut so that the suit bears little resemblance to its traditional design.
- A Return to Tailoring
These days, many men are keen on having bespoke and made to measure suits and that is why the double breasted suit has become popular among men who like to walk out with a unique cut and style. It has become a blank canvas which many have gone for quirky prints, bright hues and a riot of weaves that gives it that extra character without losing the formality.
- Street Style & The Casual Double Breasted Look
It has left the boardrooms and strictly formal occasions a long time ago. Modern street wear has taken up the tradition of using the double-breasted jacket and worn with sneakers, T-shirts and jeans. This new way of styling the suit makes it possible for the men to wear the suit in a more casual manner, modern fashion and yet retain the elegance of the suit.
- Celebrities and Style Icons
The trend of wearing double breasted suit has been brought back in the market by different celebrities and style icons. Currently, double-breasted outfit has been spotted worn by celebrities like David Beckham, Ryan Gosling, and Daniel Craig off the red carpet and during formal events proving the versatility of the modern piece.
Conclusion: The Essence of the Double Breasted Suit Remains Unchanged
Hence the double breasted suit is a timeless garment that has been steadily changing without changing at the same time. The structure coupled with its past of sophistication makes it a must have in any man’s wardrobe. Of course, as much as the double breasted suit appears to be worn for business, formal occasions, or just tailored for informal wear, the suit still remains one of the most exquisite and elegant pieces used in personal dressing.
By the same token, fashion has expanded the symbolism of the double breasted suit since it could be worn in varied occasions, it will remain a popular choice for quite a while, as it embodies both classic and trendy. As bold as it gets and as tailored to the spirit of the classic menswear, the double breasted suits are perfect for people who are willing to make a statement.
